A hitch that works well for DdRT [Dynamic doubled Rope Technique] may behave surprisingly differently when paired with a Rope Wrench for SRT [Stationary Rope Technique].

This week we’ve decided to discuss ten of the best friction hitches that every climber should know. In addition, it’s suggested to extend your rappel with any backup hitches. This simple, yet strong multi-directional hitch offers more holding power than an auto-block and added versatility in its functionality that make it a crucial hitch to know. For many climbers this was the first “advanced” friction hitch that they ever learnt. This can give you less control for landing big swings with style if used in a climbing system. This is extremely vital should you accidentally let go while rappelling, or in moments when you need to use your hands for other tasks mid-rappel. Contact us and our expert splicers will help you get what you need! Spliced eye and eye prusiks from 28” to 32”. Blake's hitch is known by some climbers as a Swicero (Suicero) knot or Verones knot.

Prusik & accessory cord (non-heat-resistant). Now that you understand that differences between these useful friction hitches, let’s take a look at how to tie them.

A few of the most valuable friction hitches worth knowing how to tie and safely use include the auto-block, prusik, and Klemheist. Be smart, and climb safe. It can tend towards binding up if tied with 8 mm cord and not kept clean. Failure to follow appropriate safety measures could result in serious injury or death. Most frequently used as a backup for rappelling, the auto-block (also referred to as the French prusik), is formed on the rope strands below the belay device and clipped to the leg or belay loop of your harness. 3 friction hitches every climber should know A few of the most valuable friction hitches worth knowing how to tie and safely use include the auto-block, prusik, and Klemheist. 5 - Cornell … View Cart  ||   Checkout   ||  View Account. amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon"; I’ve decided to use an 800 mm [eye to eye] length of 10 mm hitch cord [Yale Bee-line Blue] on an 11.7 mm rope [Yale Scandere Code Red]. Plus, it has a high melting point, and as you may remember from your high school science class, a byproduct of friction is heat, and heating nylon can cause glazing or even melting of the cord.

It self tends well and stays open reliably. Also spelt “Knute” -  this makes an excellent “compact” hitch ideal for lanyards & climbing systems where the climber wants to avoid sit-back. For technical rock climbing, it’s the ideal choice because it’s light and compact. In fact, Yosemite Search and Rescue member, Buck Yedor doesn’t leave the ground without a prusik ready on his harness. Use this guide as a general overview. Causes wear onto rope surfaces that may not be designed to tolerate heat. The industry has gone in the direction of a stitched eye being the best termination for a hitch cord.

Like an auto-block, the prusik (sometimes spelled prussik) can serve as a backup for rappelling; making it a useful tool for hands-free endeavors, such as coping with stuck ropes, cleaning gear, and rappelling down overhangs or across traverses. I hoped to avoid writing about something as mundane as the lowly prusik but what article about friction hitches would be complete without it? It only makes for a rudimentary [but still very useful] ascent/descent system. SpiderJack, Zigzag, and other friction devices.

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