Cut your first right angle before you start. It took about three passes and a bunch of #00 steel wool to get it down the bare bones. When rebuilding your carb, make sure you get the start and idle jets installed back in their original positions. Finally, a small slit was made just above the hole where the fuel lever exits the rear panel. It would be interesting to watch the action. Lines and Hoses Werner Schwark has a nice repro heater hose that connects the input on the firewall to the cooling shroud.

You can take a case cutter with a new blade and slowly, carefully cut the seal around the windshield and pull the glass out. We chose black simply because of the yellow paint job. Finally, you may get two thin strips of neoprene rubber for either side of your car. The other end is where the front shift rod connects. All Rights Reserved. You would have to remove this brace and relocate it. You should see the brightest part of the beam shift slightly lower and to the right. Yep, the connectors on the back are ready to plug and play.

Play with it and you'll get the hang. It's just about guaranteed that you'll have to for the sliding windows. You're much better off to use it sparingly and make a second pass than to goop it on and have a contour sanding job on your hands later.

Slip the seat belt floor anchor over the bolt threads, drop a lock washer on and tighten the nut down. Since most parts are in stock, repairs and restorations can proceed quickly and efficiently. • Using the same method, plug the tube that houses your lateral steering shaft. With the exception of a few minor tweaks in appearance, the schematic that is linked here is the same one that is published in John's book "Isetta Restoration - A Guide For Restoring The BMW Isetta 300 US Export Sliding Window Model" on page 158. We went to the hardware store and bought a square foot of 1/16" neoprene rubber sheet and cut a mat to fit our box.

According to Bing's manual, variants of the 1/22/98 that were also used on 250 and 300cc motors are as follows: 1/24/49 (250), 1/22/97 (250), 1/22/131 (250 & 300), 1/22/161 (250 & 300) and 1/24/93 (300). These are off-the-shelf items your hardware store should have for you. Installation is about as simple as it gets. Kits can be purchased for rebuilding your master cylinder too and include that rubber accordian boot at the front of the cylinder. If you want to trick your car out a bit, why not get a set of 3 braided stainless steel hoses from Bavarian Autosport? These dudes are made of layers of cardboard and may be flaking apart, like a croissant, if not totally shot.

If you rebuild your carb and don't check the tank for rust, you could undo much of your hard cleanup work on the carb when you open the tank valve and pour tiny rust particles down into the little fuel filter bowl.

be hooked up correctly and, b.) Your hose(s) will come later.

Just take the inside nut off, slip the inside handle off and pull the assembly out from the front. With only 50 square inches of braking surface, you want these shoes perfectly parallel to the drum. The following text assumes that your tube has the heater and choke levers installed, is lubed and ready to go. We preferred black so we had the upholstery shop make us 3 feet of it in flat black vinyl. Specifically, make sure you're inside hole is far enough back to clear the brake light switch on the rear of your master cylinder and any brake lines back there. For what it's worth, BMW made this change on the 600. We could have had one made out of similar German material (our shop does a lot of Mercedes/BMW work) for about $20.00 more and had it hand-made for our car. Make sure you have a new rubber grommet in that hole to eliminate chafing and wear on the outer part of the cable. • Metric wrenches (3mm-21mm) (Open end and box end) Like other tasks, you have several options here. The acid-free mats seem impossible to find any more in our area. Just take a pair of vice grip pliers and clamp it down good and tight on the very front of the cable. The "pretty" side of the rivet should be on the inside of the car as the other side will be covered up by your window channel felt once it's in place. There are only four small lights here. There is a D-shaped brass bushing the rest at the top and bottom of each axle. GAS You'll want the 1 3/4" variety. They make replacement rubber parts for all kinds of car, including the Isetta. By removing that piece, the left side of the panel isn't held prisoner by that brake cable. It gives a very nice finish and, in regards to the front strap, gives it a softer finish and hopefully less of a tendency to scratch your paint job. It's sort of like a fishing rod whipping around with an unhappy 10 pound bass on the other end. With it's compact size, there's no worry about fitting in the battery box or being too tall to fit under the seat. Once you've bolted the swing arm end down, you can slip the coil over the shock making sure that they tighter coil windings are on the bottom. If you tend to do things yourself, check with your local upholstery shop and ask for waterproof panel board. You'll know if you got them installed backwards because the flat base of the seals won't fit flush with the door surface. Last we heard, you're looking at the difference between $120 EACH for repro shocks from Germany and around $15-$20 for the NAPA units. Your brake system is no place to be taking shortcuts and pinching pennies! The carb's fuel inlet nipple is tilted slightly upward. It's H-D part number 65989-97. The two cast aluminum brake shoes rely on riveted lining for stopping power and there are two identical springs, one top and one bottom, that tie the two together. You don't want any engine compartment fumes finding their way into the cockpit. Next, you might want to install your refurbished shift mechanism. The fuel bowl was missing along with other parts. They do nothing but Bing work and they do it very well. Don't tighten anything down until all three bolts are installed. Factory tire pressure spex for bias ply tires is 17 psi in the front and 14 psi in the rear.

We bought a 1' piece of neoprene rubber stock from the hardware store and cut one from that. Second, under the top side of the cap, the original had a small piece of metal attached just under the ventilation hole in the center of the cap.

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